Cologne Cathedral & Hohenzollern Bridge

The site of Cologne Cathedral has been occupied by Christian churches since about the 4th century. An older cathedral was destroyed by fire in 1248, and immediately thereafter work began on the present cathedral, which was designed in the Gothic style in emulation of French church architecture. The choir was consecrated in 1322, but construction continued until 1560 (or only until 1520, according to some authorities). The project then stalled for centuries, with a large wooden crane left standing some 184 feet (56 metres) above the ground, at the top of the south tower. During the 1790s, troops of the French Revolution occupied Cologne and used the cathedral as a stable and a hay barn. Restoration work began in the 1820s, spurred on by Sulpiz Boisserée, a German proponent of the Gothic Revival movement.

In 1842 a new cornerstone was laid by King Frederick William IV of Prussia, and work to complete the cathedral resumed in earnest. The architects Ernst Friedrich Zwirner and Richard Voigtel carried out the enterprise, guided by architectural drawings made in about 1300. Construction finally ended in 1880.

At the time of its completion, Cologne Cathedral was believed to be the world’s tallest structure, a distinction it held until 1884, when the Washington Monument was finished. It continued to be the world’s tallest building until it was exceeded by Ulm (Germany) Cathedral in 1890. Cologne Cathedral was badly damaged by Allied air raids in 1944, but the medieval windows had been removed beforehand. By 1948 the choir had been restored and was again in regular use, as was the rest of the interior by 1956. In the late 20th century work began to repair the effects of acid rain on the stonework.

The art treasures of Cologne Cathedral are many and varied. Near the high altar is the massive gold Shrine of the Three Kings, containing what are said to be relics of the Magi who attended the infant Jesus. The shrine, a masterpiece of medieval goldwork, was begun by the noted goldsmith Nicholas of Verdun in 1182, completed in about 1220, and originally installed in the predecessor cathedral.

The altarpiece in the Lady Chapel (on the south wall of the choir) is a triptych entitled The Adoration of the Magi (c. 1445), which was made by Stefan Lochner, one of the outstanding painters of the Cologne school. The cathedral’s oldest stained-glass windows were crafted in the 13th century. More modern in style is an immense stained-glass window by the Cologne-based artist Gerhard Richter, completed in 2007 as a permanent replacement for 19th-century glass that was destroyed in World War II. Richter’s window consists of more than 11,000 square panes in 72 solid colors, arrayed seemingly at random within the many-mullioned window.

It’s hard to grasp the enormity of this structure and the history of it all. Quite overwhelming. We sat for a bit and when the music started and a service in German was about to start we knew lunch was out these doors and just around the corner.

We found a place and enjoyed the local fare. So they give you a small glass of beer to start. If you want a refill, get one, they’ll mark the coaster and keep them coming. IF you want to end the flow you simply put your coaster over the glass. 🍻

Time to walk off lunch & beer(s) by starting across one of Europe’s most romantic bridges. Picture yourself surrounded by thousands of sparkling padlocks, each one representing a love story. The Hohenzollern Bridge in Cologne is not just a railway crossing. It has become a global symbol of eternal love and commitment. Since 2008, couples from around the world have travelled to this iconic bridge to lock their love in a tiny padlock and throw the key into the Rhine River below. The result is a breathtaking sea of metal that tells tens of thousands of individual tales of affection, devotion, and human connection.

What Are Love Locks

Love locks represent a modern tradition where couples attach personalised padlocks to public structures as a symbol of their eternal love. The custom originated in Italy and has since spread across Europe and beyond. The ritual works like this: a couple brings an engraved padlock to the bridge. They secure it to the railing or fence. Then they throw the key into the water below, making their commitment irreversible. This symbolic gesture represents the belief that their love will last forever, just as the lock will remain permanently fixed to the bridge.

The padlocks vary greatly in style and decoration. Some display simple names and dates engraved by professionals. Others feature hand written messages, hearts, drawings, photographs, or creative designs. You will find heart shaped locks in shiny gold and silver. You will see colourful painted padlocks with elaborate designs. Some locks commemorate friendships rather than romantic love. Others celebrate family bonds or mark special moments. Each lock carries its own unique story and meaning.

The History of Love Locks at Hohenzollern Bridge

The love lock tradition at Hohenzollern Bridge began surprisingly recently. In 2008, couples started attaching padlocks to the bridge railings. The movement spread rapidly through word of mouth and social media. What began as a small gesture by a few romantic couples transformed into a global phenomenon. Within just a few years, thousands upon thousands of locks covered the bridge railings like a metallic mosaic.

The growth has been remarkable. By 2012, approximately 40,000 padlocks already hung from the bridge. Today, estimates suggest 700,000 and even more locks now adorn the structure. The sheer volume is astonishing considering the tradition has only existed for around sixteen years. Every single day, new couples add their locks, contributing to this ever growing testament to love.

Understanding Hohenzollern Bridge Itself

Before discussing the locks further, it helps to understand the bridge that bears them. Hohenzollern Bridge is far more than a romantic destination. It is a historically significant and architecturally impressive engineering feat.

Bridge Construction and History

The Hohenzollern Bridge was built between 1907 and 1911. Emperor Wilhelm II personally inaugurated it on May 22, 1911. The bridge replaced an earlier structure called the Cathedral Bridge, which had become inadequate for growing railway traffic. The original Hohenzollern Bridge consisted of three massive side by side truss arch bridges. Each featured three characteristic steel arches that became defining features of German bridge engineering. The bridge’s pillars are made of reinforced concrete. The arches consist of steel. The entire structure weighs approximately 24,000 tonnes.

During World War Two, in 1945, retreating German forces destroyed the bridge to prevent Allied forces from crossing. Just three years later, in 1948, repair work restored one railway bridge to service. Between 1956 and 1959, two more truss arch bridges were added. Further renovation occurred between 1985 and 1987 when additional railway tracks were installed.

Today, the Hohenzollern Bridge is Germany’s busiest railway bridge. Approximately 1,200 to 1,500 trains cross it every single day. The bridge now carries six railway tracks. Pedestrian and cycling pathways run along both sides, allowing visitors to walk across and experience the love locks up close.

Bridge Length and Dimensions

The Hohenzollern Bridge stretches for over 400 metres across the Rhine River. Its length is approximately 409 metres. The bridge consists of 340 railing sections. Each section resembles chain link fencing, providing ideal surfaces for attaching padlocks. Each railing section typically holds between 800 and 1,200 padlocks, creating an almost incomprehensible density of locks.

The Sheer Scale of the Love Lock Collection

In 2018, Deutsche Bahn, the railway company that operates the bridge, issued a statement suggesting all love locks might need removal due to safety concerns. However, public opposition was substantial. Locals and visitors alike protested the idea of removing such a meaningful collection. Deutsche Bahn reconsidered and retracted the removal statement. Today, the locks remain permanently as part of the bridge’s identity.

Walking Across the Bridge: An Unforgettable Experience

Crossing Hohenzollern Bridge on foot is a sensory experience. As you walk along the pedestrian pathway, you pass immediately adjacent to the railway tracks. Trains rumble past at regular intervals, creating vibrations that you feel throughout your body. The constant movement and sound reminds you of the bridge’s primary function as a vital transportation link.

Yet this railway activity enhances rather than detracts from the experience. The rumbling trains contrast beautifully with the silent testament of love represented by the locks. You walk in a sea of metal. Sunlight glints off countless padlocks. You read fragments of messages: names, dates, initials, poems. Some locks are tarnished silver. Others shine like new. Some bear artistic designs. Others are simple and plain. The variety is endless. Each lock represents a moment in time when someone decided their love was worth immortalizing.

The viewpoints from the bridge are spectacular. As you walk, the Cologne Cathedral dominates the skyline directly ahead. The Rhine River flows beneath your feet. The opposite bank reveals the city’s architecture and skyline. Photographers often camp at the bridge during golden hour, the hour after sunrise or before sunset, when the light transforms everything into gold. The combination of the bridge, the locks, the cathedral, and the river creates one of Europe’s most photographed scenes.